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GEORGE SQUIER. PERU: INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL AND EXPLORATION IN THE LAND OF THE INCAS (1877).
PERU
INCIDENTS OF TRAYEL AND EXPLORATION
IN THE
LAND OF THE INCAS
BY E. GEORGE SQUIER, M. A, F. S. A.
LATE V. S. COMMISSIONER TO PERU, AUTHOR OF « NICARAGUA,» « ANCIENT MONUMENTS
OP MISSISSIPPI VALLEY,» ETC., ETC.
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS
NEW YORK
HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS
FRANKLIN SQUARE
1877
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1877, by
HARPER & BROTHERS,
In tlic Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I.
INTRODUCTORY.
Mr. Prescott on the Inca Monuments.Influence of his Words.The Author's Aspi-
rations and Purposes.Threatened with Blindness.Appointed United States
Commissioner to Peru.Restoration to Sight.Commencement of Explorations.
Extent of the Region explored.Plans, Drawings, and Photographs.Value
of the Material secured.General Survey of the Inca Empire.Its Boundaries.
Physical Characteristics. Lake and River Systems. Mountain Ranges.The
Coast Desert.Fertile Valleys.The Inhabitants of the Valleys.The Cordillera.
The Despoblado.Distinction between the Cordillera and the Andes. The
Basin of Titicaca.Only two other Similar Basins in America.Lake Aullagas.
Lake Titicaca.Its Sacred Islands.The Bolsoncs, or Valleys.The Bolson of
Cuzco.The Montana.The Incas and the Peoples of the Montana.Probable
Population of the Inca Empire.Divisions of the Ancient Inhabitants of Pern.
Their Character and Institutions determined by Physical Conditions.Design of
this Work......................................................Page 1
CHAPTER II.
NEW YORK TO LIMA.
New York to Panama.The Remains of George R. Gliddon.The Bay of Panama.
Embarking for Peru.The Island of Taboga.Under Way.The British Steam-
ship Company.Dead Man's Island.The Island of Puna.The Gulf and City
of Guayaquil.Balsas.Pine-apples.The Rio Guayas.Las Bodegas.Along
the Coast.Paita.Arrival at Callao.Disembarking.The Harbor.Sea-lions.
Aspect of the Town.The Plaza.Merchandise.Loungers and Lazy Officials.
notol de la Marina.The Road to Lima.First Impressions of the City.The
Hotel Morin.New Quarters..........................................17
CHAPTER III.
LIMA-THE CITY OF THE KINGS.
The City of the Kings.Its Foundation and Aims.Early Civil and Ecclesiastical
Supremacy.Historical Reminiscences.Ancient and Modern Sources of Wealth.
viii
CONTEXTS.
Geographical Position.Climate and Temperature.Fogs and Mists.Topo-
graphical Situation.Prevailing Winds.Health.Origin of the Name of Lima.
The Walls. Municipal Divisions. Population. The River Rimae. The
Bridge. Style of Architecture.Mode of Erection.Balconies, Courts, and
Roofs.Poultry and Buzzards.Furniture and Pictures.The Governor's Pal-
ace.Peruvian Soldiers.The Cabildo and other Public Buildings.The Cathe-
dral.Other Churches.The Plaza Mayor.The Arcades.Fountain, with Statue
of Fame.The Plaza de la Constitucion and Equestrian Statue of Bolivar.The
Pasco of the Barefoot Friars.The Alameda de Acho.Monument to Columbus.
Public Institutions.The General Cemetery.Flower Gardens.The Feast of
Roses.Amusements.Lima under the Viceroys.Improvements since the In-
dependence.The Central Market.Varieties of Fruits.Fish.Meats.The
Abattoir.Poultry.Cookery.Puehero.Chupe.Picantes of various Kinds.
Other Dishes.Dulees.:Dietetie Maxims.A Dinner with a Hidalgo.A Diplo-
matic Dinner. .................................................Page 34
CHAPTER IV.
PACHACAMAO.
Visit to the Ruins.The Ancient Sacred City.Paehaeamae.Miguel Estete's Ac-
count of the Famous Shrine.The Spoils taken by the Spaniards.Sugar Estate
of San Pedro.Condors.Present Aspect of Paehaeamae.El Castillo.Mama-
cuna.The Arch.A Vast Burial-place.Mummies.Ancient Tenement-house.
The Family Tomb.The Bodies.Articles found with them.Tweezers.
Blanket.Shroud.Spindle.Wallet.Girl's Work-box, and Contents.Boy's
Sling.Dried Parrot.Child's Rattle.Vases and Pottery.................62
CHAPTER V.
RUINS TN THE VICINITY OF LIMA.
The Valley of Cañete and its Ruins.The Palace of El Rey Inca.Ruins of Hervai.
Temple at Magdalena.Limatambo.Ruins in the Valley of the Chillon.
Burial-places of the Ancient Poor.Relies found in Graves.Ruins of Cajamar-
quilla.Exploring and Surveying.Meet the Robber, Rossi Arci.His Subse-
quent Fate.........................................................82
CHAPTER VI.
IT THE COAST TO TRUXILLO.
Starting for Paita.The Rocky Coast.Sea-lions.The Oasis and Port of lluacho.
The Town.Rock-salt.How it is formed.Supe and Patavilca.The Rio de
la Barranca.Ruins of Paramanea.Traditions.Ancient Works on La Horca.
Iliiarrncy or Oiiarmey.Casnia.Bays of Simanco and Fcrrol.The Valley of
Cliirnboto.Ancient Monuments.Silver Mine of Micate.Port of Santa.The
Rio Santa.Riilge crowned with Ruins.Huaca near Santa.Ride to Santa.
The City.Guano Islands of Guafiape.Eagles, Pelicans, and Vultures.Port of
CONTENTS.
ix
' Huanchaco.Singular Craft.Sardinas.'Getting ashore.The Prefect of Truxil-
lo.Departure for Truxillo.The Grand Chimu.Beautiful Lizards.Entrance
to Truxillo....................................................Page 98
CHAPTER VII.
TRUXILLO-RECONNOISSANCE OF GRAND CHIMU.
Truxillo. Hotel del Comercio. The Chinese Fonda. Churches, Convents, and
Public Buildings.Colonel La Ro^a.His Collections of Antiques... Supposes
the Author to be in Search of Hidden Treasure.Reconnoissance of Chimu.
Hamlet of Miraflores.The Great Aqueduct.General Survey of the Ruins.
The Huacas, Walls, and Gardens.Girls' Tombs without the Walls.Azequias.
Remains of a Village of the Excavators of El ObispoiHow" the Huaca was
built.A Solitary Scorpion.Almost under Arrest:Unearthed Palace. The
Royal Tombs- .El Castillo.The Dead of a Great Battle.Skulls of Various
Races.Cemetery of Girls.The Prison.Huaca of Toledo.Miles of Graves.
The Watering-place of Huaman.Return to Truxillo.Photographic Annoy-
> ances.............................................................114
CHAPTER VIII.
THE RUINS AT MOCIIE.
Ride to Mochc.Diminished Area of Cultivation.Alleged Effects of Earthquakes.
Incident on the Rio Moche.The Indian Pueblo.The Gobernador.Many-
horned Sheep.The Ladies of the Family.Primitive Spinning Apparatus.The
Church.Reception by the Cura.Present and Past Condition of his Flock.
Ruined by having the Right of Suffrage.The Cura's Lamentations.His Opin-
ion upon Treasure-hunting.Offers to guide us to the Ruins.The Ride.Tem-
ple of the Sun.View from the Summit.The Great Pyramid.Farewell to the
Cura.Subsequent Exploration of the Pyramid.Its Form and Dimensions.
Alleged Secret Passages.A Modern Adit.Probable Purpose of the Structure.
Visit to the Prefect of Truxillo.His Magnificent Mansion.His Want of Hos-
pitality...........................................................125
CHAPTER IX.
EXPLORATIONS AT GRAND CIIIMU.
Ride to the Ruins.Hall of the Arabesques.The First Corridor.Figures in Stuc-
co. The Second Corridor.Vaults and Store-rooms.Cotton Mattresses.An
Upper Edifice.Walls, Passages, and Chambers. The Furnace.Vessels of
Gold and Silver. Many Relics melted down. Prospects left for Research.
Conjectural Features of the Structure. Exterior Walls probably Decorated.
The Destruction by Treasure-hunters. The Necropolis of Chiuiu. Niches
with Unman Remains. Fine Cloths of Cotton and Alpaca Wool.Silver Or-
naments attached to Fabrics.Decorated Skulls. A Mysterious Structure.
Covered Tomb. Our Way of Life at Chimu. Plans for the Future. Ruins
Described by Rivero and Tschudi. The «First Palace.» Ornamented Court
and Hall.Forms of Ornamentation.The Great Reservoir.El Presidio, or
the Prison.An Evidence of Former Civilization.The « Second Palace.»Hu-
aca of Misa. Barrios, or Wards. Sub — barrios. The Cabildo, or Municipal
House.Dwellings of the People.Other Squares.Reservoirs and Gardens.
Huacas of Las Conchas and Toledo.Ancient Smelting-works. Evidences of
Trade Localities...............................................Page 135
CHAPTER X.
LEGENDARY HISTORY OF THE CIIIMUS.
Accounts by Feijoo and Garcilasso de la Vega: Extent of their Territory.Their
Chief, Chimu-Canchu.The Invasion by the Inca Yupanqui.Stubborn Resist-
ance.Final Submission of Chimu-Canchu.Beneficent Measures of the Inca.
Relation by Montesinos: The Inca Empire threatened by the Chimus.Wars be-
tween the Chimus and Incas, from the Eleventh to the Twenty-fifth.The Chimus
conquered by Topa-Yupanqui, the Ninety-seventh Inca.Relation by Balboa: War
between the Inca Capac-Yupanqui and Chimu-Capac.The Chimus subjugated by
Topa-Inca.The Account by De Leon.Different Customs and Dialects among
the Chimus.Some Legends of their own Origin.The Idol Llampallec at Chot.
Its Removal, and the Consequences.Accession of Chimu-Capac, who was con-
quered by the Incas.The Ancient Language of the Chimus still spoken at Etcng.
Different from the Quichua and that of the I
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